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il surf

"Alla fine devi sempre trovare un equilibrio.
A quel punto puoi continuare a muoverti.
Sembra una metafora sulla vita, invece è il surf."

Queste le parole di Simone, un amico surfista veramente ispirato, per conto mio definiscono alla perfezione quello che sulla west coast degli anni settanta veniva chiamato "lo sport".
Il surf da onda con la sua filosofia mi ha da prima affascinato, poi man a mano nel corso della vita. ispirato

marco ferrando, fotografo

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